Sayyeda al-Kaslaania
March 2011, revised August 2016
The pattern I developed for this Anglo-Saxon garment is nearly identical
to my interpreted pattern for standard Middle Eastern garments of the Middle Ages. The largest influence on this choice is
the way it flatters the luxury sized body. When a luxury sized person makes a
t-tunic that starts with the center body panel as half of the fullest
measurement, the shoulder seam droops toward the elbow, the gores can to cling
to the hips, and the whole thing can look like dressing-in-dad's-clothes, instead of a custom-made garment.
These garments instead take advantage of the natural
flattering lines on the body. The center body panels are as wide as the
point-to-point measurement; the intersection of underarm gussets and side body
gores is set just at the visually narrowest part of most luxury-sized bodies, i.e., the ribcage just
below the bust. The underarm gusset allows room for the fullness of the bust
without forcing the eye to it, and sleeves are gently angled to a narrowed
cuff. The garment sweeps gracefully over all the parts of the body. By
foregoing a belt, the lines of the garment all draw the eye to the face. The
garment hangs naturally from the shoulders, so there is no tugging or
discomfort. The costume becomes custom fit clothing, and looks very much like
the drawings in Gale Owen-Crocker’s book, Dress in Anglo-Saxon England.
This cut is similar to Nockert Type 5, explained further
on I. Marc Carlson’s site http://personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html
The trick to fitting women is to get the breasts comfortably supported. Wear a well fitting bra and tighten the shoulder straps some
before taking measurements. The point-to-point measurement is taken while the
bra is on, and seam allowances are added to that. The measurement to determine
the location of the gusset/gore intersection is taken from the top of the
shoulder. Let the tape fall over the bosom and looking from the side see where
an imaginary line drawn from the ribcage measurement (bra band) would intersect
the tape. Don’t make the tape follow the curve under the bosom because the
garment won’t be doing that, so the result would look unfitted.
Here's directions for using making and using this kind of pattern.
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