What's the Difference?
A quick and simple comparison of different recreations of so-called Middle Eastern styles
left to right:
Ottoman Turkish woman about 1550. Long-sleeved green undercoat coat (hirka), entari (outer coat), pants (shalvar),
hat, scarves. Leather buckle shoes. Unseen gomlek (chemise) with long sleeves. Undercoat fastens closed
with lacing, form
fitting, sleeve fitted to wrist, slightly long for arm intentionally. Overcoat, short sleeves; fastens with fabric buttons
and loops, front corners turned back and tucked into belt to reveal contrasting lining (also
appropriate to let down). Shalvar pants fitted to
ankle; decorative cuffs and side panels. Belted over all with fabric
sash. Hat is structured “fez” style, concealing the hear in a bun, hat pinned to bun. Scarf tied around hat to keep it in place.
Ottoman Turkish woman, late period. Chemise, coat, hat, veils. Low boots. Unseen vest (yelek) and
pants (shalvar). Coat fastens with buttons; form fitting; exaggerated tails
are purely decorative now, with additional adornment, tucked into belt;
short sleeves. Sleeves of chemise are much longer than arm (to express
wealth), and fitted to the wrist. Belted overall with sash. Scarf tied
kerchief style to conceal hair; small square veil (mandil) draped over
head. Hat (tarpun) adorned with feathers; held in place with two scarves. Landed Baroness wears a coronet.
Early Middle Ages
Fatimid woman: undertunic, tunic, coat. Felted shoes. Scarf wrapped
kerchief style around the head for a base. Rectangle wrapped
wimple-style to conceal the neck and bosom. Two scarves pinned to the
top of the head (the black one is sheer and needs to be “lined”). Coat
does not fasten, fully lined. Cuffs turned back. Unbelted. Unseen: Pants
(sirwâl) held by a decorative drawstring (tikka). Accessory: woven fan. Large rectangular wrap would be the next layer for out-of-doors.
Fatimid man. Undertunic, tunic, pants (sirwâl) held by a decorative
drawstring (tikka). Tunic has tiraz on right arm; cuffs are not tight to
allow for more air flow. Leather shoes (khuffs), leather belt. Belt
favor (mandil) embroidered with blessings. “Pillbox”- style soft hat is the
bare minimum a man would wear outside of the house (turban normally worn
over it). Accessory: cross-over bag. Rectangular wool wrap would be
appropriate over garment.
High Middle Age
Mamluk man. Undertunic, tunic, coat, pants (sirwâl). Fabric belt tied
over all. Turkish style-riding boots. Felt cap wrapped with a turban.
Coat fastens with frogs, short sleeves, style is much more fitted than earlier. Another fitted coat, or a rectangular wool wrap would be the next layer.
Thank you to the Lady Aziza, Baroness Eva, Lord Oswald, and Master Gevehard for posing with me.